Monica Knits

Cream CablesI saw the pattern in the Lion Brand catalogue and it was love at first sight. I find long, knitted dresses practical for travelling. The color, yoke with horizontal braid, and vertical A-line cable design all grabbed my attention. So as not to mislead you, I happen to really like oyster white and find it a flattering, versatile color. Lion Brand^R offers you the choice of buying the pattern and yarn separately, but the kit was convenient and the color perfect for me. This pattern was rated at an experienced skill level and I would have to agree as I had to make some changes in both fit and pattern. It took me 80 hours to complete, including modifying the design and construction methods. Read more....

The 6 stitch cable (twists) had a single orientation, but I created twists that were mirror images about the center 12 stitch cable--like in the pattern photo, unlike the pattern instructions. I also changed the orientation of the 12 stitch cable. To read how I modified the cables, click on the following link. A Quick Way to Visualize Cable Patterns

I also changed the construction method to improve the quality, fit and knitting speed for this garment. In brief these are the changes I made.

1. Except for the yoke, sleeve caps, and a portion of the front and back, the garment was knitted entirely in the round. The pattern specified knitting flat. It is easier and faster to knit cables in the round and less error prone as you constantly see the pattern (right side).
2. Although my dimensions made me a "medium", I knitted a "small" cabled yoke because it fit perfectly with these dimensions. The dimensions, as written would have been too loose for me.
3. I joined the yoke in the round (looks best if you use a provisional cast on to reduce bulk.)
4. Next, I picked up stitches from the cabled yoke and knitted the garter stitch yoke in the round (not flat), up to the neck, adding a couple of rows at the top for better fit. I tried it on as I knitted and stopped when I liked the look. Since a dress needs to be fitted from the shoulders down, I completed the bodice before beginning the body of the dress. The original pattern instructions had the garter stitch yoke completed last. Also because of the weight of the yarn, it was important to knit top down so that the drape could be taken into account in determining where to best place the increases, for a flattering fit.
5. After completing the neckline, I picked up bodice front, sleeve, bodice back, sleeve stitches and knitted 4 rounds of the pattern, in a clockwise direction, using two 4.0 mm circular needles. With cables, direction matters.
6. I then placed the sleeve stitches on stitch holders and knitted each of the front and back garments flat for 44 rows, the front on the first needle and back on the second needle (2 separate balls of yarn). This point was based on trying on the garment and giving myself enough leeway to alter the garment and fit the sleeve if necessary. I knitted in the round until 27-1/2" of the dress body had completed, at which point I knitted one sleeve and then the next. This served two purposes. With the sleeves complete, I could knit the dress in the round until I ran out of yarn or reached a visually pleasing length. Also, I have wide hips and a narrow waist, so I wanted the sleeves in place, when I altered the positions of the circumference increases.
7. I made the sleeve cap and sleeve 1/2 to 3/4" wider than the pattern specified. (I also added a 3" long gusset to the underarm portion of the dress body.( As written, the sleeve would have been too tight for me in the medium size. I picked up the sleeve stitches from the stitch holder and knitted the sleeve flat until the sleeve cap was completed, trying on the garment as I went. At the underarm, I joined the sleeve in the round and knitted it in the round to the hem. Then I knitted the second sleeve. As with the body, I also modified the sleeve cables so that they were symmetric, mirror images about the sleeve center. I changed the sleeve hem to a garter stitch border, mirroring the neckline style.

In the next article on the garment, I will explain the cable patterns and provide a sketch showing the direction of knitting.

Source: Lion Brand, Wool-Ease Cable Luxe Maxi, item #60721A