Monica Knits

As with the cuff down sock, the heel flap is knitted in rows with a slip stitch pattern and smaller needles for durability. One difference however, is that gusset stitches are decreased on each row, until all 30 (15 each side) gusset stitches have been absorbed by the heel flap. The other difference is that the wrapped stitches from the short row turning heel have to be worked in at the beginning of the heel flap. Read more ... for detailed step-by-step instructions for the toe up heel flap.

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This article is one segment of the "Basic Toe-Up Sock" series. The demonstration sock, a woman's medium size, is based on 64 leg sts. To link to other articles in this series, either: a) click on the index hyperlink in the masthead, then socks and select the desired article or, b) click on the Basic Toe Up Sock link at the bottom of this article, then click on the desired topic.

Basic Toe Up Sock - Heel Flap
As preparation for the heel flap, the wrapped stitches from the short row turning heel will be worked. The turning heel ended on a purl row, so the heel flap begins on a knit row. Transfer the stitches from the 2.5 mm circular needle to the 2.0 circular needle to increase durability.

Knit Step 1 Knit Step 2 Knit Step 3 Knit Step 4

Knitting Wrapped Stitches
Row 1: Sl 1 k14, knit across to the last st (picking up and knitting each loop and wrap together), knit the last st on Needle 1 (sole sts) together with the first stitch on Needle 2 (instep sts), left to right.

1. Image 1 shows the wrapped stitches on the end of Needle 1. The blue wrapped stitch is easiest to discern, since the green wrap contrasts with the blue loop.
2. Pass the needle through the wrap from bottom to top, then through the regular stitch front to back (normal knit orientation). The marker on the right hand side separates the wrapped sts at the beginning of the needle from the regular knit stitches in the middle of the turning heel.
3. Step 3 is a close-up of the loop and wrap being picked up.
4. Knit the 2 loops (wrap and st) together. The st has been completed and is in the processing of being transferred to the right hand needle.

Purl Step 1 Purl Step 2 Purl Step 3 Purl Step 4a Purl Step 4b Purl Step 4c Purl Step 4d

Purling Wrapped Stitches
Row 2: Sl 1, p across to the last stitch (picking up and purling each loop and wrap together), slip the last stitch purlwise (wyif), and slip the first st from the instep needle purlwise (wyif). Turn.

1. Approaching a wrapped stitch on the purl side.
2. Pass the right hand needle from back to front through the back loop of the wrap.
3. Place the loop of the wrap on the left hand needle.
4. Forming the purl stitch. The wrap and the st are purled together (right to left).
   Image 4a shows the needle passing right to left wyif.
   Image 4b shows the needle picking up the yarn.
   Image 4c shows the yarn being drawn through the 2 loops (st and wrap).
   Image 4d shows the completed st on the right hand needle.

Dec Step 1 Dec Step 2 Dec Step 3a Dec Step 3b

Heel Flap Gusset Decreases, Knit Side
This is actually the completion of the decrease stitch on the purl side, it just happens to be easier to execute on the knit side. Since the first stitch on the knit side would be a Sl 1, this works out fine.

1. The first gusset stitch from the instep needle has been transferred to the sole (now heel) st needle. Step 1 shows the twisted gusset stitch which needs to be corrected.
2. Step 2 shows the corrected twist. The leading edge of the loop is now the front side, facing the knitter.
3. The gusset stitch and the heel stitch are knitted together right to left.
   Image 3a shows the right hand needle passing through the 2 sts right to left.
   Image 3b shows the yarn being drawn through both loops.

Heel Flap
Row 3: K2tog right to left^a, PM^b *(Sl 1 k1) across to last st, knit last heel st and next gusset st (instep needle) together (left to right), PM^c. At this point I placed a second marker and moved the remaining gusset stitches (on this side only) from the instep needle to the heel st needle, for convenience.
a) See instructions above under heel Flap Gusset Decrease, Knit side
b) Marker indicates start of slip stitch pattern.
c) The second marker separates the gusset stitches (this side only) from the heel sts.
Row 4: Sl 1, p across to last st. Sl st purlwise. Transfer first st from instep needle. Turn. I did not transfer the rest of the gusset sts on this side because of the need to twist them. I preferred to confirm the correct orientation of each stitch individually. If you prefer, you could however place a marker and move the remaining gusset sts to the end of the needle to reduce transfers.
Remaining Rows: Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the gusset stitches have been absorbed by the heel flap.

Quality Control Tips

1. The turning heel markers (from the prior article) act as a visual aid to keep track of the stitches wrapped and the next stitch in sequence. They are removed as rows 1 and 2 are completed.
2. Gusset markers were placed on the instep needle to keep these stitches separate from the instep stitches. The heel flap is complete when the gusset stitches are absorbed and you reach the gusset markers. This way you don't have to count and there is no risk of removing too many or too few sts from the instep needle.

NEXT STEP - Leg
As preparation for the leg, the heel sts are transferred back to a 2.5 mm needle. Then the the leg is knitted in the round.

Click here to transfer to the Basic Toe Up Sock article.

Click here to transfer to the Toe Up Sock - Turning Heel article.

Further Reading - Short Row Heel and Related Heel Flap
Bordhi, Cat, Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles: A manual of elegant knitting techniques and patterns, Passing Paws Press, Friday Harbor, WA, 2006, pp. 37-38. In this book, Cat gives instructions for a toe up sock that takes full advantage of a directional, climbing vine pattern, "Leaf and Tendril Sock," but it is not a beginner level sock.