Monica Knits

Gusset & Heel DetailYou have completed the tubular portion of the sock foot and are now ready to increase the diameter to accommodate the ankle width. The gusset, the widest part of the sock, is shaped with increases on alternate rounds. This is done with paired lifted increases on the sole side of the sock and results in a more subtle gusset than was demonstrated with the basic cuff down sock. As a quality and visual aid, yarn in a contrasting color was laced through stitches on the instep (white) and the sole (blue). In addition, a stitch marker was placed at row center of the sole stitches. Read more ... for further details.

To view a larger image, click on the thumbnail.

This article is one segment of the "Basic Toe-Up Sock" series. The demonstration sock, a woman's medium size, is based on 64 leg sts. To link to other articles in this series, either: a) click on the index hyperlink in the masthead, then socks and select the desired article or, b) click on the Basic Toe Up Sock link at the bottom of this article, then click on the desired topic.

Basic Toe Up Sock - Gusset
Instep SoleIn this demonstration sock, the gusset increases are accomplished with right and left lifted increases on either side of the sole. This method produces a subtle, slanted increase on either side of the foot. There are other methods of constructing the gusset, but this one was selected for the basic sock because it is relatively straightforward.

1. Move one stitch from either end of the sole needle to the instep needle. This leaves 30 stitches on the sole needle and 34 on the instep needle. I find that splitting the stitches 50:50 results in too wide a heel for me.
2. Using a darning needle, thread a fine yarn or thread through the loops of the sole stitches on the knitting needle. With a different contrasting color, you may want to mark the instep stitches similarly. The images above show a sock yarn of the same gauge as the working yarn so that it can be seen in the photographs. In the photos above, white was used to identify the instep stitches and blue the sole stitches. Ideally, you would use a yarn finer than the working yarn.
3. Knit across both needles, increasing stitches on alternate rounds, on either side of the sole. Stop at the end of the round in which the number of stitches on the sole needle has doubled, from 30 to 60. The sole needle is Needle 1 and designates the start of a round.
   Round 1, Needle 1: k1, inc 1 in st just completed (lifted increase right), k28, inc 1 in the last st (lifted increase left), k1 (last st).
                  Needle 2: k across (34 sts).
   Round 2, and all even rounds: k across both needles.
   Round 3, Needle 1: k1, lifted inc right, k to last stitch, lifted inc left, k1.
                  Needle 2: k across (34 sts).
   Round 4: k across both needles.
   Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until needle #1 has 60 sts.

Quality Control Tips

1. At the end of a round, Needle 1 has an even number of stitches. Periodically check to make certain. The mostly likely error is to increase at one end of a needle and forget to do so at the opposite end of the same needle. By checking the count periodically, this can be caught and remedied before the error is compounded.
2. If you find a needle with an odd number of stitches, count stitches on either side of the marker placed for exactly this purpose. The side with the smallest number needs to be increased to restore balance. Depending on where you are in the round (needle 1 or needle 2, and whether it is an increase round or knit round), back up to the mistake and correct it, or insert an increase at the appropriate end of the next knit round (even round).
3. Use a tally counter, stitch register, or other method to track odd and even numbered rounds.
4. The blue (or other high contrast color) tracer yarn, lets you know which needle holds the sole stitches. At the beginning of the gusset stage, before many increases have been completed, it is not obvious (without close inspection), which needle is which. The tracer has multiple purposes: visual aid for the sole (like the stitch marker), basis for counting rows, and as a safety net. If you forget to increment the row counter, you can count the stitches from the marked row to determine which row you are on. If you make a mistake that necessitates undoing the work, you can rapidly undo the work to the safety row; for this case you need both the sole and instep stitches traced.
5. The following mnemonic can be used to remember right and left lifted increases: right lifted increase, lift a loop from below the completed stitch on the right hand needle; left lifted increase, lift a loop from below the next stitch on the left hand needle.

NEXT STEP - Turning Heel
As preparation for the turning heel, 15 sts from either end of the sole needle (Needle 1, above), will be moved to the needle holding the instep stitches. The heel turn is then worked on the remaining 30 center stitches.

Click here to transfer to the Basic Toe Up Sock article.

Click here to transfer to the Toe Up Sock - Foot article.