Monica Knits

Gusset MarkersThe gusset is the widest part of the sock. For this reason, an additional 20 stitches are picked up, and decreases then worked over alternate rows as the sock tapers towards the foot and toes. Before the gusset can be worked, heel stitches are transfered back to 2.5 mm needles and the heel flap stitches are picked up. An additional stitch is picked up in the intersection of the heel flap and instep, to prevent an unsightly gap. Markers are strategically placed to speed knitting and improve quality during the subsequent gusset construction.

This article is one segment of the "Basic Sock" series. The demonstration sock, a woman's medium size, is based on 64 leg sts. To link to other articles in this series, either: a) click on the index hyperlink in the masthead, then socks and select the desired article or, b) click on the Basic Socks link at the bottom of this article, then click on the desired topic.

Basic Sock - Picking Up Gusset Stitches
Stitches may be either picked up with a knitting needle or a crochet needle and can be picked up through both loops or the backs of the chain stitch selvage loops.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PICKING UP GUSSET STITCHES
First 2.5 mm Circular Needle - Round 1
9 StsTransfer the last 9 (of 18) heel stitches from the 2.0 mm needle to a 2.5 mm circular needle and place a marker (PM). Leave the first 9 stitches on the 2.0 mm needle for now. PU ChainPick up 15 stitches from the loops along the heel flap. My preference is to pick up stitches through the backs of the loops (outermost loop) for aesthetic reasons. In the intersection of the heel flap and instep, pick up a stitch.* On the next round you will knit it through the back loop (a twisted stitch), to keep a hole from appearing. Place a marker. Transfer 1/2 the stitches from the second circular needle by knitting them with the current needle.

Second 2.5 mm Circular Needle - Round 1
PU Chain 2

With the second 2.5 mm needle, knit across the second half of the instep sts. Place a marker and pick up a stitch in the intersection of the instep and heel flap. Pick up 15 stitches in the loops along the heel flap. Place a marker, then knit the 9 heel flap sts remaining on the 2.0 mm needle. The 2.0 mm needle is now free of stitches and all stitches are once again split between two 2.5 mm circular needles.

First 2.5 mm Circular Needle - Round 2
k9 (heel) (marker is here)
k14 through back loops
k2tog through back loops (marker is here)
K17 (instep)

Second 2.5 mm Circular Needle - Round 2
Gusset ProfileK17 (instep) (marker is here)
ssk
k14 through back loops (marker is here)
k9 (heel)

In addition to picking up gusset stitches, the stitches of the sock have been arranged in profile (left and right sides) because it is easier to knit the gusset in this configuration.

* You can either pick up 15 stitches with the same circular needle, or use a 2.5 mm crochet needle to pick up stitches and then transfer them to the knitting needle. My preference is the crochet needle.

Transfer Loops* A crochet needle is more versatile than the knitting needle for picking up stitches, particularly when a number of stitches are to be picked up, or the geometry is awkward. Even in this straightforward example I missed picking up one of the 15 selvage stitches, and it was just a matter of slipping a few stitches off the crochet needle, since I hadn't yet transferred them to the knitting needle. I double check the stitches before transferring them to the knitting needle.

Quality Control Tips

1. After round 1 there should be 42 sts on each needle: 9 heel sts, 16 gusset sts, and 17 instep stitches.
2. There are 4 markers: 1 on each side of the heel stitches (18 stitches between) and 1 on each side of the instep stitches (34 stitches between).
3. Picking up stitches with a crochet needle enables you to verify and correct errors in stitch number before transferring them to the circular needle.
4. The chain stitch selvage provides a neat edge with just the right number of easy to see stitches to pick up.

NEXT STEP - Gusset
The gusset is shaped with paired decreases on alternate rows until the combined number of stitches is again 64, 32 stitches per circular needle. The markers simplify instructions for gusset shaping and aid in quality control.
Click here to transfer to the Basic Socks article.

Related Posts
Picking Up Gusset Loops - Side by Side Appearance Comparison
Basic Turning Heel (2 loops picked up for gusset)
Picking Up Gusset Stitches (through front & back loops)
Picking Up Gusset Stitches (through back loops)
Ridgeline Turning Heel (back loop only picked up)