Monica Knits

The long tail cast-on is the preferred of two method's I was taught as a child. It provides a durable, stretchy, foundation for a sock cuff. In addition, a large number of uniform stitches can be cast-on quickly. The following instructions are given for a woman's medium sized sock in fingering weight yarn. 64 stitches are cast-on. Click on any thumbnail to see a larger image.

This article is one segment of the "Basic Sock" series. The demonstration sock, a woman's medium size, is based on 64 leg sts. To link to other articles in this series, either: a) click on the index hyperlink in the masthead, then socks and select the desired article or, b) click on the Basic Socks link at the bottom of this article, then click on the desired topic.

Basic Sock - Long Tail Cast-on
The tricky part is calculating the length of the yarn tail. For fingering weight yarn, 3/4" of yarn per stitch suffices. The extra length is used to mark the start of the round and to provide sufficient yarn for weaving in, once the sock is complete.

Step 1: Calculate Tail Length
(number of stitches) x 3/4" per stitch = (number of inches)
64 stitches x 3/4" per stitch = 50" yarn.
Unwind about 50" of fingering weight yarn from the skein. In the photo above, the skein is on the right and the tail is on the left, for illustration purposes. Normally I have the yarn in a yarn keeper at my feet and the tail on the left. I knit right handed with the Continental method, so my left hand holds the yarn.

Step 2: Thread the Tail Around your Fingers
Refer to the photo above.

• With your palm facing upwards, pass the yarn over your baby finger, round the back and then bring it back up from the outside.
• Pass the yarn over the next 2 fingers and behind your index finger.
• Bring the yarn towards you over the palm, between the thumb and index finger.
• Then pass it over your thumb in a direction away from you.
• Bring the yarn back towards you over the palm and over the yarn stretching between your thumb and index finger. The tail hangs down towards the left.

Tail_2Step 3: Forming the First Stitch
With the straight needle in your right hand, pass the needle tip through the loop around your thumb.
Then pass the tip of the needle under the yarn which wraps around the back of your index finger.
I use a 2-3/4 mm straight needle for casting on. This makes the first row easier to pick up and knit with the 2-1/4 mm dpns I use for the cuff.

Tail_3Pull the needle and yarn needle back towards you, through the same loop around your thumb.

There will now be a stitch on your needle, with a loop around your thumb.

Tail_4Let the loop slip off your thumb. The first stitch is now complete.

Tail_5Step 4: Forming the Next Stitch
Using your thumb, pick up the tail yarn, so that it is again wrapped around the outside of your thumb as before.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 to cast on the remaining stitches.

Tail_6Step 5: Use Stitch Markers for Counting & Quality Control
I like to place stitch markers at regular intervals while casting on. The larger the number of stitches in a project, the greater the benefit. It also minimizes errors associated with casting on too few or too many stitches. Markers serve multiple purposes during the cast-on process. If you are casting on with 2 circular needles, please refer to Circular Needle Cast-on for steps 6 and on.

1. Divide the set in three for subsequent transfer to 3 dpns (double-pointed needles). For 64 stitches, I group the stitches as 20, 20, 20 and 4 each group divisible by 4. This is important for the 2 x 2 ribbing of the cuff. In the photo, above left, you see the last 24 stitches, a marker at 60, followed by 4 lone stitches.
2. Keep track of stitches. If I get interrupted I know where I ended without having to recount completely. For 64 stitches, the markers are placed after each 20 stitches.
3. Quality control and counting. It is just easier to count by twenties than by ones. Although this example may seem trivial, it is a time saver.

Tail_7Step 6: Transfer Stitches to dpns Transfer stitches to 3 needles as follows. If you marked the stitches as you added them, the last group added to the needle is the group of 24 (4 + 20 stitches). This is the first set of stitches transferred. After this set, the marker indicates when it is time to start a new needle.

Tail_8 Figure 8 is a closeup showing how stitches are transferred from the long straight needle (dull grey needle on the left hand side) to the double pointed needle (shiny needle on the right hand side).

Tail_9Figure 9 shows that about 2/3 of the stitches have been transferred. The third of three markers indicates the start for transferring stitches to the 3rd and final dpn.

Tail_10In figure 10, all stitches have been transferred from the straight needle to the dpns. The only remaining operation is to join the first and last stitches in the round.

Needle 1: 24 stitches
Needle 2: 20 stitches
Needle 3: 20 stitches.

Tail_11Transfer the last stitch on needle 3 to needle 1. Pick up the second stitch (formerly, first stitch) of needle 1 with a 4th dpn (top needle in the photo at left) and pass it to needle 3. This crossing of stitches creates the round. You don't have to cross the stitches, you could just begin knitting in the round, however I find this makes a firmer start.

NEXT STEP: Basic Sock - Cuff
Click here to transfer to the Basic Socks article.

Further Reading Excellent diagrams of the long tail cast-on method can be found on pages 18-19 of the Big Book of Knitting.