Monica Knits

Construction techniques that have been used in the projects featured are summarized in this article, along with links to full details and examples using these techniques. This living document is updated as techniques are illustrated. Basic stitches are found in the Stitch Patterns article.

1. CAST ON
2. BIND OFF
3. BLOCKING
4. NOTIONS (elastic)
5. GRAFTING (weaving, joining)
6. BUTTONS
7. SHORT ROWS
8. WASTE YARN PROVISIONAL STITCHES

CAST ON The first step in a garment or project is creating the initial stitches on the knitting needles. For felted projects the cast on technique is usually critical. For other cases, the beauty, stretchiness, or durability of the cast on edge is important to the structure and design of the garment.

Long Tail Cast On
The Long Tail Cast On is the preferred of two method's I was taught as a child. It provides a durable, stretchy, foundation for a sock cuff and is the one I use most often for socks or garments that begin with ribbing. In addition, a large number of uniform stitches can be cast-on very quickly.

The tricky part is calculating the length of the yarn tail. For fingering weight yarn, 3/4" of yarn per stitch suffices. The extra length is used to mark the start of the round and to provide sufficient yarn for weaving in, once the sock is complete.

The Circular Needle Cast On is a subset of the long tail cast for creating a foundation in the round. It differs in a non-intuitive way from the method of joining in the round for multiple dpns, so the circular needle cast on article provides step-wise illustrated instructions for this technique.


Kitchener Cast On
The Kitchener rib stitch cast on forms an elastic edge that is an excellent start for a 1 x 1 rib stitch or a reversible fabric. I is demonstrated with a reversible headband in two colors, but can also be used for a single color cast on. It is also known as a tubular, or Italian cast on and there are many ways of knitting it.




Knitted Cast On
Like the cable cast on, the Knitted Cast On is a good choice for adding stitches at the end of a row, or in the middle of a work, for example when casting on buttonhole stitches, or adding stitches for an armhole. It takes less time to execute than the cable cast on, though it takes longer than a long-tailed cast on.

The knitted cast on was used for the armholes of the Cable Luxe Maxi dress (see also Cable Luxe Maxi - Part 2) and the Swing Coat. This method is a "knit-as-you-go" approach not requiring a long tail, or calculated measure of yarn beforehand.

The knitted cast on is a good choice when you are casting on with multiple colors.

Cable Cast On
The Cable Cast On is an ideal border for a garter stitch pattern, providing both structure and flexibility. As a decorative edge, it looks like twisted rope or cable. Although it is an excellent foundation for a knitted row, it is more time consuming to execute than a simple cast on or a long-tailed cast on, so beauty comes at a cost. The cable cast on is a good choice when you are casting on with multiple colors.

Like the knitted cast on, the cable cast is a good choice for adding stitches at the end of a row, or in the middle of a work, for example when casting on buttonhole stitches. The cable cast on was used for the Cotton Candy Cascade Ruffle scarf, where it not only provided a decorative edge, but there was no guessing how much yarn was required for the cast on. The cable cast on was also a design feature of the Knitted Towel with Lace Trim. This method is a "knit-as-you-go" approach not requiring a long tail, or calculated measure of yarn beforehand.

Provisional Cast On
The Provisional or Temporary Cast On is used when you will knit from the foundation row, in the opposite direction, at a later stage of construction. It may be used in a toe-up sock, when adding ribbing to the lower edge of a garment or when you will be picking up stitches from the foundation row to work later.

A provisional cast on was used for the Long Mohair Glove because the full length was unknown when the glove was started. I had a fixed amount of yarn, plus I wanted the gloves tapered and custom fitted to the elbow. It was easier to accomplish both these aims by casting on a few inches above the wrist, completing the hand and then picking up stitches and knitting the arm. This way I could knit until I ran out of yarn if need be.

Say you want to add waist ribbing to a sweater knitted from the bottom up, but are not sure what length suits you best, the provisional cast on gives you the latitude to knit the body of the sweater first and later pick up stitches from the foundation row and knit the ribbing.

The Cable Luxe Maxi dress I knitted has cross-wise bands of cables; using a provisional cast on helps avoid bulk where the two end seams are joined in the round.

The braided headbands also used a provisional cast on to reduce bulk and create an invisible join in the round: Gold Braided Headband, Cherry Licorice Braided Headband, Two Color Braided Headband, and Frost Green Cabled Headband. The provisional cast on results in a smooth transition between sets of stitches.

BIND OFF (or cast off) Bind off stitches are used to provide a finished durable edge that won't unravel, and suited to the project, whether to hug a neck, wrists, or waistline or to provide a decorative finish like picots.

Basic Bind Off
For ribbed cuffs the basic bind off "in pattern" (K2P2, K1P1, etc.) provides satisfactory elasticity, matches the rib pattern and is quick to execute. Full details can be found in the following article: Basic Cast Off.

In brief, the first and second stitches are knitted (or purled) normally. In the K2P2 rib stitch, the first two stitches would be knitted. Then pass the first stitch (furthest away from the needle tip) on the right hand needle over the stitch closest to the needle tip. This leaves one stitch on the needle. Purl the next stitch (P2 of K2P2 pattern). There are again 2 stitches on the right hand needle. Pass the first stitch on the right hand needle over this new stitch to again leave one stitch on the right hand needle. Continue the pattern of knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches and passing the furthest stitch over the closest stitch, until all stitches on both needles have been worked. Bind off loosely to maintain good elasticity. Draw the yarn through the last remaining stitch. Try the garment on before cutting the yarn (i.e. a sock or glove).

Crochet Bind Off
The Crochet Cast Off provides a similar appearance as the basic bind off, but a crochet needle is used to draw a loop through a stitch from the left hand needle, then off and through the single stitch on the right hand needle as well. This may be a good choice if you have a tendency to bind off too loosely or at the cuff of a sleeve, to provide a tight finish for increased wear resistance. When using this technique on ribbed edges, I have to use a crochet needle a diameter larger, because the tension is too tight otherwise. If you compare the photo at right to the one above, you'll notice that the tension was tighter even with a larger needle. As with the regular bind off, try the garment on before cutting the yarn.

Purl Stitch Bind Off
The Purl Stitch Bind Off is ideal for a garter stitch fabric and may be a counterintuitive choice if you created the fabric by knitting all rows. The photo at left shows how the unobtrusive purl bind off completes and complements the garter stitch fabric. This was also a design feature of the Knitted Towel with Lace Trim and is also ideal for the garter stitch yoke of the Cable Luxe Maxi .


Picot Bind Off
Mohair Glove The Picot Bind Off is a delicate looking finish of bobbles, that has good elasticity. It begins with a normal bind off of one or two stitches and then employs a combination of cable cast ons and clustered bind offs. This method was used to finish the long, mohair gloves.







BLOCKING Blocking is the key to a professional fit and finish and to creating a garment that you will enjoy wearing for years to come. Blocking is to knitting as polish is to shoes. In addition to providing the final shaping, it provides a professional finish. I have used both hand-made blocking tools (padded cardboard covered with a pillow case) and purchased tools, of which there are now a great variety, including specialty tools for socks and lace.

Blocking evens out minor irregularities in stitch tension, squares up edges and allows you to size two edges prior to seaming, grafting, crocheting or or knitting the pieces together. Rust free pins and a blocking surface are required.

Since I purchased a garment steamer, this is my preferred method for most projects, because it is quicker and tames synthetic fibers like acrylic as well. The steamer also provides a beautiful sheen to acrylics. I continue to use an immersion method for crocheted cotton doilies because I find wet cotton easier to stretch, shape and pin.

There are 3 basic methods for blocking:

1. Immerse or spray with tepid water, roll in a towel to remove excess water, pin to shape and allow to dry fully before unpinning. This method works well for natural wool, but is not recommended for synthetics, since it doesn't provide a permanent set.
2. Press with a steam iron. Caution is required; excess temperature could melt synthetic fibers or crush textures.
3. Pin the knitted fabric to the blocking surface with rust free pins. Use the wand of the steamer to lightly moisten the piece and set aside until completely dry. This takes less time than the immersion method, because the fabric doesn't need to be saturated. In most cases, the steaming takes a couple of minutes, counting warming up the steamer.

The Hugs and Kisses acrylic wristwarmers were blocked using steam, cardboard templates, a blocking mat and flower and T pins. "Before" and "after" photos are shown at the left and right respectively. For details, click on the following link: Blocking a Wrist Warmer.




The cotton, rocking horse bib was blocked using the June Tailor, "Quilter's Cut 'n Press II" tool after the bib was knitted, but before it was embroidered. The padded pressing tool was the right size for this project and the printed grid useful for shaping the garment. When blocking, it is important to use rust free pins. Pin the garment to shape and mist with a sprayer. I use a small watercolorist's sprayer to gently mist and then let the garment rest and dry overnight. There is no need to soak the garment. Click here to transfer to the article: Blocking Needlework.

Block Picots A template cut from card-stock weight cardboard was used to block the hand, wrist and arm sections of the long, mohair glove.





Click here to read about the benefits of using a garment steamer for blocking: Product Review - Compact Garment Steamer. To see a blocking mat and lace wires in use, read the articles: Product Review - Blocking Mat and Product Review - Lace Blocking Wires - Not Only for Lace.

NOTIONS .... more coming
Woolly nylon thread is traditionally used for sewing lingerie, but it is also excellent for collars, cuffs and edges. The recent Strawberries & Cream Tabard collar edge was finished with woolly nylon to provide a stretchy neckline that lays flat against the skin. For the collar, I threaded ivory colored woolly nylon through the purl turning ridge on the inside of the neckline. The Concord Ivory (510) thread becomes invisible when sewn in this manner.

Elastic Thread
Sew ElasticWhen knitting socks or leg warmers with wool or superwash wool, elastic thread is not required. However when using synthetic or plant based yarns, elastic is recommended to compensate for stretch during use or during the life of the sock. The sample sock in the Basic Sock series is constructed of superwash wool, however I have sewn white elastic thread to the cuff interior to demonstrate the technique. This elastic can be purchased in several colors.

Related articles:
Basic Sock - Finishing - use of elastic thread
Strawberries & Cream Tabard - use of woolly nylon
Woolly Nylon for Elasticity & Reinforcement - use of woolly nylon

GRAFTING
When you graft two pieces together, you create a new row of stitches between the upper and lower fabrics, and the transition appears seamless. All the top down socks in this blog use the Kitchener (grafting) stitch toe.

KITCHENER STITCH TOE (also called weaving or grafting the toe)
The Kitchener stitch is an invisible, strong method of closing the toe opening. This method is also called "weaving the toe" or "grafting the toe." In preparation for joining the top and bottom halves of the toe section, the ten (10) stitches on each of the 2.0 mm circular needles have been transfered to two 1.75 mm dpns, to provide additional ease for guiding the darning needle through the loops. The yarn was cut, leaving a 10" tail (1" per stitch) which is sufficient for completing the Kitchener stitch and weaving the yarn end in. Click here to read: Basic Top Down Sock - Kitchener Stitch (Grafting Toes) .

Although the rectangular toe is relatively quick and easy to accomplish, the toe I prefer from a fit and aesthetic perspective is the traditional tapered toe with a Kitchener stitch bind off. It can be used for both the cuff down and toe up sock. To read the full article on a the toe up version and view additional photos, click here: Basic Toe Up Sock - Kitchener Stitch Toe.

GRAFTING (Joining) Two Stocking Stitch Pieces Together
Grafting is a versatile technique that produces an invisible join between two stocking stitch pieces. It can be used when lengthening (by inserting rows) or shortening a garment in the middle. If a garment were found to be too long across the center back, you could cut across the stitches, unravel a few rows and then rejoin the two portions by grafting. This technique is illustrated in the article: Knitwear Repairs & Alterations - Cut Apart and Graft Together (mohair glove). Click here to read the related articles: Grafting (Joining) Two Stocking Stitch Pieces Together and Knitted Towel with Lace Trim.

For garments or flat knitted work, I lay the work flat on a blocking board to graft, as in the articles on joining two stocking stitch or two garter stitch fabrics together. For the mohair gloves, I used a modified "flat" technique, by rolling a face cloth and inserting it into the glove so that I could pin open the 2 loops I was working with, since they were so small, dark and fuzzy that I would otherwise have had to strain to see them well to make sure they didn't twist.

GRAFTING (Joining) Two Garter Stitch Pieces Together
BeforeAfterI prefer finishing the cabled headbands with a grafting (also called Kitchener) stitch, because the seam is invisible and looks like the knitting. In the cabled headbandd featured (Gold Braided Headband, Cherry Licorice Braided Headband, Two Color Braided Headband, and Frost Green Cabled Headband), there are both knit and purl stitches so optimally you would use both knit and purl grafting stitches. In addition, after I wrote about grafting stocking stitch fabrics a number of readers inquired about grafting purl (garter) stitch fabrics, so I have now included stepwise illustrations for this variation.

If you are grafting stocking stitch or reverse stocking stitch pieces where both sides are viewed (such as a towel or scarf), then use the technique for grafting stocking stitch pieces described in an earlier article. If you are grafting two pieces of reverse stockinette (where the stocking stitch side will not be viewed) or are grafting two garter stitch pieces together, then use this method for grafting. Click here to read the article: Grafting (Joining) Two Garter Stitch Pieces Together (purl & garter sts).

GRAFTING "IN PATTERN"
For the cabled headband, my preferred method of joining it in the round is with the Kitchener (also called grafting or weaving) stitch, because it creates an invisible join and does not add bulk. When grafting knitted pieces that are "in pattern", such as this garter, purl and knit stitch pattern, a combination of the two basic grafting stitches is used.

Grafting "in pattern" combines the techniques of grafting stocking stitches and grafting garter stitches. Each stitch is evaluated independently. If it is a knit stitch, then for this stitch the grafting instructions for stocking stitch fabric are used (i.e. the yarn is inserted through the loop on the initial and final passes as if you were grafting two stocking stitch pieces). If it is a purl or garter stitch, then the instructions for garter stitch grafting are used. Click here to read: Grafting "In Pattern".

Grafting Instructions Links
Basic Sock - Kitchener Stitch (Grafting Toes) (Top Down Sock)
Basic Toe Up Sock - Kitchener Stitch Toe
Grafting (Joining) Two Garter Stitch Pieces Together (purl & garter sts)
Grafting (Joining) Two Stocking Stitch Pieces Together (knit sts and reverse stockinette pieces)
Grafting "In Pattern" (combinations of knit and purl sts).

BUTTONS ........more coming
Shank Buttons Buttons sewn to knitwear generallly need shanks, due to the thickness of the fabric. Whether they are integral to the button as in this photo, or thread shanks matched specifically to the button and garment, is a matter of personal preference. For the 3 leg warmer designs, I used flat buttons with thread shanks, because I liked the button colors and shapes.


Related Posts
Leg Warmers (olive green with flower petal buttons, button placket)
Lacy Blue Leg Warmers (instructions)
Satin Blue Leg Warmers
Bernat Satin Yarn.




Using a Button Elevator to Create Thread Shanks
Button ElevatorA button elevator is used to create a space between a flat button and the fabric to which it is being sewn so that a thread shank can be created. This molded, plastic tool has 4 steps of thicknesses 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Each step has an access slot through which the thread passes when the button is being attached to the fabric. Click here.... for fully illustrated instructions for creating a thread shank using the button elevator: Sewing Buttons to Knitwear Using a Button Elevator.


Using a Darning or Knitting Needle Spacer to Create Thread Shanks
Alternatively you could use a knitting or darning needle as a spacer: Sewing Buttons to Knitwear - Alternate Method.
To create a thread shank for a flat button, sew the button on as normally with one exception. Place a knitting needle or other spacer between the floss or yarn and the top of the button. The spacer diameter will be determined by the height required for the shank, which in turn is determined by the thickness of the knitted garment. The button has to sit above the fabric for both aesthetic and functional reasons. In this case a darning needle was used for the spacer.


Buttonhole Band - Method 1
Although these buttonholes are vertical in the completed Leg Warmers, they were knitted in a horizontal band from stitches that were picked up along the chain stitch edge between the cuffs, using the method described in the article Making a Horizontal Buttonhole Look Good. They feature a scalloped edge, self-facing and buttonhole stitch. Close up of buttonhole band, with vertical, knitted-in holes, self-facing and buttonhole stitch reinforcement. The buttonhole stitch is required with this design to hold the facing outer and inner together at the buttonholes. The buttonhole band doesn't need any further reinforcement (i.e. no gross grain ribbon) as the self-facing serves the purpose. This buttonhole band was used on the stocking stitch Leg Warmers with shell petal buttons. The fold-line for the self facing is the right edge of the buttonhole band. The scallops are a bonus to this method of buttonhole construction; the band is knitted as a rectangle, so it looks more complicated than it actually is.

Related posts:
Leg Warmers (ribbing, stocking stitch, buttonhole band, photo)
Vertical Buttonhole Method 1 (scalloped edge)
Vertical Buttonholes and Buttonband (alternate method of constructing vertical buttonholes, shown on baby cable leg warmers)

Buttonhole Stitch
Buttonhole The buttonhole or blanket stitch is used to reinforce the knitted buttonhole to prevent it from stretching. In this example, with a self-facing, it serves the dual purpose of anchoring the facing to the button band and reinforcing the buttonhole. For this sample, the floss was not color matched as in the original Leg Warmers, so that you could see how the stitch is constructed. Four (4) strands of DMC floss were used.

If you made your buttonhole slightly too large, this stitch can be used to reduce the circumference somewhat. If you prefer, you can place the stitches closer together for a different appearance, but the edge doesn't fray, so it is not a structural requirement.
Two (2) Row Buttonhole
Earlier I wrote about two vests - a Mechanic's Vest and a Knitter's Vest. As I was re-reading my notes on the knitter's vest, I noticed that I changed the buttonhole design. The Knitter's Vest used a buttonhole customarily reserved for small buttons on baby garments. It doesn't work for larger buttons and I don't find it particularly professional looking for adult garments. Also, I have noticed that most buttonhole instructions result in a sloppy look with an angled loop of yarn partially obstructing the opening. For full instructions on this 2 row buttonhole click here: Making a Horizontal Buttonhole look Good.

SHORT ROWS ........more coming
Short rows are used for shaping and the most common applications are socks (toes, heel flaps and turning heels). Short rows are also used to shape collars, like the shawl collar in the Knitter's Vest. If you need to have more length in the front or back of your garment to accommodate your figure, short rows can provide the extra length at the CB, while the side seams for both garment front and back remaining the same length.

Related Posts
Basic Toe Up Sock - Short Rows Toe
Basic Toe Up Sock - Heel Flap
Basic Toe Up Sock - Turning Heel
Basic Sock (Top Down)- Turning Heel
Knitter's Vest (short rows shape the shawl collar)

WASTE YARN PROVISIONAL STITCHES
The use of waste yarn as a placeholder for stitches to be picked up later is very versatile. In mittens and gloves, it allows you to knit both the right and left hands to the fingers identically, and maintain stitch or color patterns without the complexity of working around a thumb. Waste yarn can also be used to reserve stitches for pocket openings and for knitting resoleable socks.

Step 3 The example shown was knitted in light gold colored yarn with a red waste yarn to make it easier to demonstrate how the provisional stitches are picked up. It is usually faster to pick up the stitches on the stocking stitch side, however there are occasions where you may need to pick the stitches up from the purl side. In the dark blue mohair gloves, although the waste yarn could be easily seen, it was difficult to see the stitches to be picked up, so I ended up picking up the stitches from the inside (purl side) of the glove.

Related Posts:
Basic Glove - Picking Up Thumb Stitches (picking up from stocking stitch side)
Basic Glove - Thumb Opening (picking up from purl stitch side).